A Week in the Kingdom of Kerry

As a first-timer to Ireland, I can’t think of a better introduction to this gorgeous country than County Kerry, commonly called the Kingdom of Kerry. After landing in Dublin, I immediately went west. By booking my train ticket early via Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail), I could also tack on a bus ticket for the Dublin Express that runs regularly between the airport and Dublin Heuston Rail Station. Less than an hour after landing, I was at the train station. An hour and one quick customary Pret a Manger lunch later, I was on the train heading west.

Transportation

One thing that I didn’t anticipate was that to cover all that this area of the country has to offer; it is best to rent a car. And before you totally write this whole thing off, please hear me out. No one is less likely to have decided to rent a car and jump right in self-taught, alone, with no prior international driving experience. But it was much less traumatic than I had built it up to be.

The rental experience was very easy. I went online, reserved and paid for the car, and then the next day, arrived at the office in Killarney. There, they copied my American driver’s license, encouraged me to spring for the insurance that covers everything except gas and the key (you NEED to do this), gave me the keys, and sent me on my way.

My takeaways were as follows: Follow the center line when there is one and not the left side of the road because the driver’s side is situated on the right side of the car, which messes with your spatial muscle memory. Don’t try to rent a manual if you don’t have a lot of experience driving a stick– the switch to the left side of the road and the wheel on the right side of the car is hard enough. Maybe instead of taking advice from me, google around a bit because I did return the car with one less left-side mirror, and most of my technique was to constantly sing “To the left, to the left, everything you own in a box to the left” to remind myself of where to drive. For which I am grateful to Beyonce, but past that, no expert.

Anyways, the high-risk begat high reward because I could pack in some incredible adventures by basing myself in the foothills of Carrauntoohil, about equidistant between Killarney, Tralee, and Dingle.

Killarney

Killarney has a bustling town center full of pubs, cafes, and many places to shop, and the headquarters of many tour companies offer sightseeing tours across the county. After the aforementioned loss of my side mirror, I opted to see the Ring of Kerry via bus tour, and I am so glad I did. I’m usually a bit of a self-guided wanderer, but this was a wonderful way to see all the ring sites, guided along by someone from the area and with stops that I wouldn’t have made on my own. 

I joined up with Deros Tours, which made several touristy stops, but I was down for it. The entire 111-mile trip was packed with commentary, lots of information, and even a song or two from our guide. My favorite stops included the sheepdog demonstration at Kells Sheepdogs, the view at the top of Com an Chiste, wandering through the Village of Sneem, and the breathtaking Ladies View in the National Park. This tour took up a full day but was worth how much was packed into one tour and cost just under 40 Euros. It included a stop for lunch at a cafe, but you could just as easily bring your own picnic. 

Tralee

Tralee is the largest town in Co. Kerry, and while it was where I ended up spending the least amount of time, it was no less enjoyable. I made my way to Tralee for an evening to check out the show Celtic Steps and the suggestion of my BnB host, Judi. 

Celtic Steps is an Irish music, song, and dance stage show that features the competition dancers and musicians in the area. It was exciting to see such talented performers up close, and they did a great job of telling the story of Ireland’s music throughout. This not only provided an excellent stage show but also helped me have a more knowledgeable and discerning ear for what I was listening to when I was out at the pubs enjoying the many pub sessions I attended. The dancers in this show were absolutely off the charts!

Before the show, I caught a quick bite to eat and had a wonderful meal at Kirby’s Irish Brogue. It was excellent, and if you go, save room for dessert and order the Pavlova. 

Dingle

Being a seaside lover through and through, Dingle had my whole heart. Not just the adorable seaside village but the whole peninsula area. I loved driving along the coast, stopping occasionally just to take in the roadside view of the bay. I adored my afternoon at Sea Views stables, where I rode horseback through the valley with the best horse in all the land, Tayto. One afternoon I stopped at Inch Beach solely to nap and get an ice cream cone. Bliss. 

But the greatest adventure was my morning out on the Atlantic with Dingle Sea Safaris. 

Leading up to my trip, I had been following several Irish wildlife and tourism accounts in the area, and words can’t possibly express the level of excitement when I learned a pod of humpback whales had been spotted in the Dingle Bay the week before I left on my trip. I was so hopeful they’d still be there when I arrived and immediately began researching the best way to get myself out there. And that’s how I found Dingle Sea Safaris. 

Honestly, in name, it sounded like a breezy tourist outing. Though prone to seasickness (this is how, at age 10, during a snorkeling trip in Jamaica, I learned the hard way that I would, in fact, not make for a good marine biologist), I could do this. So I shoved a handful of Dramamine into my bag, and off I went. 

This was not a breezy tourist outing. 

When I tell you they call it the Wild Atlantic, they mean it. This outing required full-on waterproofing gear, which the company provides. I highly recommend bringing a beanie or something to cover your ears that sits tightly (and the more waterproof, the better). For this adventure, you’re on a RIB boat with only 12 other people and the seats are positioned so you’re straddling the seat and using the handle provided on the backrest of the seat in front of you for support. Like an amusement park ride. Because, well. You’re going to need it. 

A RIB boat is a small, inflatable, high-performance vessel, which means it can take to the sea at really high speeds and, when popped up over the swells, takes some incredible air. There were times when the swells between a few of the smaller islands were converging, and we were taking on waves so tall and being shot up in the air so high that I had time to think, “Why haven’t we bottomed out yet? Is this where I die?” before hitting the surface of the water. It made the time I jumped off of a three-story catamaran into the choppy waters of the barrier reef off the coast of Key West seem like child’s play. If you have back, hip, or knee issues, are hungover, pregnant, or have any joint issues of any kind, I would think twice about this trip. 

So, was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! This was one of the most exhilarating and powerful experiences I’ve enjoyed on any vacation. We pulled right up to so many different rock formations, and seeing the Blasket Islands up close was incredible. But more than anything, being so close to the marine life, both in the water and above, filled my heart to the brim. We saw gray seals lounging on the beach, dolphins swimming up alongside our boat, and jellyfish galore– and even learned about a non-stinging variety that I got to hold with my own two hands. We saw so many birds. Guillemots, Petrals, Gannets, Terns, and, for the second time in my life, I got to see Puffins!

And there were LOTS of birds flying about the open waters due to the whales stirring up the fish below. That’s right. The whales were still in the area, and after some searching, we did find them, and it was beautiful. 

We didn’t get a full-body breach, but they did breach several times, enough for us to get a sense of their grandeur, and it was amazing. After trailing them for a good 30 minutes, we left for the port, well-satiated and completely soaked, feeling fully alive. I can’t say enough about how incredible this day trip was. And I’d like to personally give it up to the makers of Dramamine, who made it possible for me to take it on. 

Again, I can’t think of a better way to jump into my time in Ireland than starting in County Kerry. If you’re curious about more of the sights and sounds of this part of my trip, follow me on Instagram at @eliseshrock and check out my Ireland highlight! 

Where I stayed: The Mill at Gortanden (10/10 adored this place, the hosts, and everything about The Mill)

Transportation: Irish Rail, Budget Killarney